Masterclass Mondays: How To Cleanse-Tone-Moisturise
Emma Hobson is the education manager for the International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica and details the best way to cleanse, tone and moisturise your skin.
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Firstly to get a really squeaky clean skin I would recommend the use of a pre-cleanse oil. Cleansing oils are a fantastic new type of product that you use ideally for your first cleanse – they deliver a level of cleansing traditionally experienced in the professional treatment room. They work on the principle that like attracts like. The oil in the product attracts the oil as well as the dirt, make-up and debris on the skin surface. These are simply massaged into the skin with light fingertips. They help liquefy sebum without stripping the skin or compromising the barrier function. Therefore, when you wash off the cleansing oil you will thoroughly wash away all the dirt, surface oil and debris. This ensures your second cleanse with your normal cleanser really cleans the skin.
The great thing about these types of product is that they are excellent at removing sun screens off the skin surface. A sun screen can often sit on the skin and result in skin congestion or sensitivity. They are also fantastic at removing waterproof mascara and long-wearing lipstick. Recommended product: Dermalogica Pre Cleanse
One of the secrets to effective cleansing, is to cleanse the skin twice (morning and evening). Follow the pre-cleanse oil with a good cleanser which needs to match your skin type for your second cleanse. If you have oily skin, you need a cleanser that does not strip the skin of oils (i.e. soap or products containing S.D alcohol). These normally come in the form of clay based cleanser or a gel facial wash. Recommended product: Dermalogica Dermal Clay Cleanser.
Equally if you have dry skin you will need to use a milder cleanser with less surfactant, they often come in the form of a milky/creamy cleanser. For a combination skin the cleanser can be a light milky cleanser or a gel facial wash. Recommended product: Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel. If you have sensitive skin, choose a cleanser that is free from artificial colours and fragrance, and has calming and soothing ingredients. If you have very traumatised/sensitised skin choose a cleanser that normally states ‘for environmentally sensitised skin’. These come in milky/creamy formulas or cleansing gels. Recommended product: Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser.
Cleansing the eye area:
I’d advise a makeup remover that is specially formulated to use around the delicate eye area as opposed to a general cleansing product. This should ensure that a) the product won’t sting or irritate the eye and b) that all your eye makeup, especially that stubborn mascara, comes off. Try to avoid eye makeup removers that contain mineral oil as some people find this causes them to get little whiteheads around the eyes. Recommended product: Dermalogica Soothing Eye Makeup Remover.
It is important to apply the correct amount of product, be it cleanser, toner or moisturiser, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions and always apply with clean hands.
For the cleanser work the product into the skin with an exfoliating facial brush or your fingers. Work the cleanser into your skin in light circular motions from top to bottom or vice versa. Pay special attention to the areas where you have congestion such as the nose, forehead, neck or chin. Ensure you take your cleanser right up to your hairline and around to the back of your ears as these are common areas for congestion often due to poor cleansing.
It should take about 1 minute to cleanse your skin; many people find they take less than 10 seconds!
To remove your cleanser use tepid water and thoroughly wash away all traces of cleanser – using a facial cloth will also ensure you get every last bit.
The very best toners today come in a spritz/spray bottle. Apply a light mist evenly over the skin and don’t waste pouring excess product onto cotton wool pads. Avoid toners with SD alcohol as they are drying and sensitising on the skin and may irritate the eye area. Recommended product: Dermalogica Multi Active Toner.
Ideally apply moisturiser over your toner. If you apply a hydrating spritz toner which boosts the hydration levels of the skin and prevents dry skin patches (which soak up heaps of moisturiser), you should need about half the quantity of moisturiser than if you didn’t spritz. If this is the case you only need about the size of a pea. If your moisturiser is also your sun protection you will need to apply about half a teaspoon for the SPF to be effective.
What’s your skincare routine?